Sunday, June 01, 2008

WVO filtering & DeWater setup v2.0

The video is of my filtering & dewatering setup v2.0. As stated in the video my initial filtering set up had 2 tanks but after doing "batch" processing I realized that I did not need both tanks.


Disclaimer: This is only my take on the SVO filtering/dewatering thing. Do your research and make your own conclusion. I could be totally wrong about this stuff.

Reason for changing to one tank/barrel:

  • My oil will eventually settle in the cubee if left long enough. Ambient heat will speed things up
  • Other than storage & settling the 1st barrel is only used when dewatering. Dewatwering 2 tanks takes twice as much energy and is overkill.
  • Keeping oil in cubees lessens chances of condensation forming and reintroducing water into filtered oil while stored.
  • new location eliminates chance of rainwater contamination and allows for convenient fill up of car while filtering oil
  • Living in SoCal there is less chance of spillage in cubees than the barrel due to chance of earthquakes.
  • Saves my arm by not having to manually pump oil from 1st tank to second
How does it work:
  • Oil settles in cubees for a minimum of 2 weeks. Since I don't use that much oil it tends to be much longer longer.
  • After settling, oil is poured through a 10/5 micron double sock filter.
  • Once barrel is filled it is slowly heated to approx 100º for 4 days using a pipe heater.
  • After 4 days of heating it is pumped through a Permacool 2 micron canister filter using a 12v pump from Northern Tool. One could use whatever pump you choose.
  • Oil is processed as a batch and barrel is virtually empty when not in use. Clean oil is stored inside in cubees or pumped directly into car
Testing for water:

This is based on the FryBrid crackle test.
  • After 3/4 days of heating oil fill up a empty cubee rinse with warm oil to remove any remaining sediment and fill halfway with clean warm oil & shake vigorously. Dump rinse oil into sediment container for resettling
  • preheat frypan to 320ºf
  • using a syringe or paperclip gather and drop a small drop of oil onto the hot frypan
  • Using a magnifying glass quickly examine the droplet for bubbles and/or the sound of crackling.
  • There should be none or very little. Please see the frybrid page for what is acceptable

MISC

Pictured right is the draw tube that goes in the bulge hole. I added the "j" pattern. Bottom of tube is approx. 7" off bottom of barrel.


Pictured right is the filter element that I removed due to straining of 12v pump. ecojetta uses the same element but uses a 120v pump. I kept the canister in line because I had already installed it. It is empty now

12 comments:

  1. Thanks for updating your site with V2.0. Also, great easy-to-understand video. I am in the process of making a prefiltering tank similar to yours, but for the purposes of making biodiesel. One question: what is the model # of the Permacool filter you purchased and what filter model # do you buy? I live in So Cal too, so hopefully we may cross paths one of these days.

    - Bob

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  2. There is a direct link to the Filter and housing above in the description. Replacement filter is PRM-81000

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  3. hey joe,

    great set up. i'm building one now based on your model, so thanks for all the info! one quick question... in the dewatering cycle, do you need to leave the lid off of the top of the tank to allow for evaporation from the heated oil? also, i've noticed that you have your filter socks mounted on something. is that just a plywood deck that's sitting above a cutout on the barrel lid?

    let me know and thanks again for all the great info!

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  4. I didn't take the lid off because I felt it would release too much of the heat. I guess some condensation may form on the lid but the big drops are not the issue because if they fell into the oil they settle out quickly when the oil is heated and any on board filter on your car with a water blocking feature will catch water at that size/level. It's the suspended micro stuff you're removing by dewatering.

    The sock holes are in a cut out in the lid

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  5. Hi, Great info, thanks very much.

    Another heater question. How is the heater installed in this setup? Wrapping the drum? Inside somewhere? And about how much current does it draw? Do you see any hazards there of any kind?

    Thanks again.

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  6. Follow the 1st link in the post for the v1.0 set up.

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  7. love the setup!

    quick question, do you know of a good place to get empty cubies?

    thanks!

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  8. HELLO BOB,

    COULD YOU PLEASE CONTACT ME ABOUT HOW EN WHAT SYSTEM YOU USE TO MAKE BIODIESEL?
    YOU CAN EMAIL ME AT FLYINGDUTCHMENN@AOL.COM

    THANX,

    PIETER

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  9. my name is neil.I read your article/video ,it seems simple.Are you heating the oil soley to get the water out?Does the water rise to the top or sink to the bottom.The bottom I think.
    For example you filter it and get the water out and thats it.straight into the engine,no modifications? neiljonjo@live.co.uk is my e mail.

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  10. Bob,
    Thanks for taking the time to share. I see many ways to dewater. What you are doing seems very simple. How many miles have you logged to date solely on veg oil? Do you still run diesel in the colder months?

    Thanks.
    ~Colin
    Arlington, Va.

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  11. I appreciate your blog post !! nicely written and composed!

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  12. Thank you for the wonderful post !!! The video helped so much to understand everything in such an easy way !

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